Free Motion Stitching Tutorials |
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One of my sewing missions is to take the fear out of trying new things, especially free motion stitching. When I teach classes, I spend more time being a cheerleader than an instructor :-) It occurred to me that most people are terrified of trying their free motion skills on a quilt top that they have just spent many hours and dollars on. So, I am making a page of fun, small projects where you can practice your skills with very little risk of time or money. (People also tend to be afraid of failure, or looking bad...all you have to lose there is a little pride, which is always worth it! :-)) Some of the projects have different types of stitching than you would use on a regular quilt, but I think they are easier to start with, and the first goal is for you to make a friend of your free motion foot! :-)
Also, coming soon, a page for more advanced free motion stitching ideas!
If you want to know when new projects are added, 'like' my On The Trail Creations Facebook page.
Also, coming soon, a page for more advanced free motion stitching ideas!
If you want to know when new projects are added, 'like' my On The Trail Creations Facebook page.
The projects on this page are all free, but my kits and patterns are also a fairly low investment way of trying a new technique. With kits there is no waste of materials or time spent choosing fabrics.
Basic Free Motion TutorialBasic Free Motion Stitching and Thread Sketching Tutorial
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Just about any sewing machine is capable of doing free motion stitching, if you talk to it right :-). Newer ones are usually a little easier to work with, but any machine should be able to do it. I’d like to try it on an old treadle machine sometime, just to prove it can be done :-). Click the photo for more, after reading the info below :-)
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A few tips before we get to specific projects:
1. Many free motion quilting designs are meant to not have the stitches overlap. But when you are just practicing, it can be easier to start on designs that DO overlap.
2. Some of the ideas in these projects are not necessarily things you would do on a real quilt, such as a lot of dense stitching. (Unless it's an art quilt, of course!)They are intended more as a way for you to make friends with your free motion foot.
3. A great tip when you are learning: If you don't like a shape or line you stitched, go over it again or even several times. That can smooth it out while looking like you meant to do it that way :-)
4. Remember that free motion stitching generally shows less than you think. I like to use prints, batiks and hand dyes, all of which are notorious for hiding the stitching. But if you are learning, this can be a good thing. I spend more time trying to get mine to show up! A true solid fabric with contrasting thread is the best way if you DO want it to show. But even hand dyes that are mostly solid have enough going on to make most stitching disappear. This should help make you less nervous to quilt a real quilt!
5. No one is born knowing how to do this. I can give you information and projects to try, but only you can give you practice and experience, and there is no substitute for them. :-)
1. Many free motion quilting designs are meant to not have the stitches overlap. But when you are just practicing, it can be easier to start on designs that DO overlap.
2. Some of the ideas in these projects are not necessarily things you would do on a real quilt, such as a lot of dense stitching. (Unless it's an art quilt, of course!)They are intended more as a way for you to make friends with your free motion foot.
3. A great tip when you are learning: If you don't like a shape or line you stitched, go over it again or even several times. That can smooth it out while looking like you meant to do it that way :-)
4. Remember that free motion stitching generally shows less than you think. I like to use prints, batiks and hand dyes, all of which are notorious for hiding the stitching. But if you are learning, this can be a good thing. I spend more time trying to get mine to show up! A true solid fabric with contrasting thread is the best way if you DO want it to show. But even hand dyes that are mostly solid have enough going on to make most stitching disappear. This should help make you less nervous to quilt a real quilt!
5. No one is born knowing how to do this. I can give you information and projects to try, but only you can give you practice and experience, and there is no substitute for them. :-)
What you will need for supplies:
Top fabric: This can be any cotton quilting fabric. If you want your stitches to show, then a true solid is best. If you don't really want them to show, use a print and coordinating thread.
Batting: This can be any thinner batting, or fusible fleece would work too. Heavy interfacing like Timtex or Pelltex works great too, and is recommended for projects with heavy stitching, like the Grape Hyacinth postcard. It is the easiest to use for most of these projects because of its stability, but not always something everyone has on hand.
Backing fabric: Necessary for stability if you use regular batting, but not the heavy interfacing. I often use muslin for a backing while I am doing the stitching, then cover it with nicer fabric afterwards. This can either be attached with the binding, or fused to the back, since these are such small projects.
Free motion foot for your machine
Thread: Experiment with different types, just make sure your needle size is right for your thread thickness.
Needles: Quilting, Microtex, or Topstitching needles all work for free motion stitching. Universal would be ok, but not best.
Fusible web: some of these, but not all, use fusible web for some parts, the kind with paper backing is easiest to use.
Top fabric: This can be any cotton quilting fabric. If you want your stitches to show, then a true solid is best. If you don't really want them to show, use a print and coordinating thread.
Batting: This can be any thinner batting, or fusible fleece would work too. Heavy interfacing like Timtex or Pelltex works great too, and is recommended for projects with heavy stitching, like the Grape Hyacinth postcard. It is the easiest to use for most of these projects because of its stability, but not always something everyone has on hand.
Backing fabric: Necessary for stability if you use regular batting, but not the heavy interfacing. I often use muslin for a backing while I am doing the stitching, then cover it with nicer fabric afterwards. This can either be attached with the binding, or fused to the back, since these are such small projects.
Free motion foot for your machine
Thread: Experiment with different types, just make sure your needle size is right for your thread thickness.
Needles: Quilting, Microtex, or Topstitching needles all work for free motion stitching. Universal would be ok, but not best.
Fusible web: some of these, but not all, use fusible web for some parts, the kind with paper backing is easiest to use.
10 Minute Project Tutorial
I'm not actually sure what these are, coasters, postcards, or wall art! Just a very quick project! Click on photo for tutorial.
Valentine Coasters Tutorial
Coasters and quilted greeting cards are a great way to do a quick practice project that is still good for something! (But never see practice as a waste of time or materials either, it's the only way to learn!!!)
Click the photo for the steps to make this project.
Click the photo for the steps to make this project.
Grape Hyacinth Postcard Tutorial
Free motion stitching is basically drawing, and when we learn to draw we first learn to scribble, right? As it turns out, you can make a pretty good grape hyacinth with just a little scribbling in the shape of a triangle! Click the photo for steps, and also some even simpler options. The only tricky part about this one is that since the stitching is SO dense, it works best to use a heavy interfacing like Timtex or Pelltex instead of batting. If you do use batting, I would highly recommend also using an embroidery hoop for stability. (Start with a piece large enough to put in the hoop)
Fun sampler
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To make this quick sampler, just trace shapes found around your house, plates and boxes, and overlap them a bit. (Or design it on the computer) Then fill each shape with a different color and tree motion design. I used rainbow colors in order for the shapes, then a variegated one for the background. I stitched the outlines twice so they would show up better. You could finish it with either binding or a pillowcase finish like I did.
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Mini wedding favors!?
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There is no tutorial for this one, just the idea. It came from Barbie Toman, who is in an art quilt Facebook group, and used with her permission. She is making them to attach to all of her wedding favors, I love this idea!
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Click here for some advanced free motion projects if these are too easy! :-)
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